Ep. 38: Brewery Focus. Noguchi Sake Institute with Tengu Sake

Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute

Located in the heart of Ishikawa prefecture, Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute is the most intriguing sake establishment I’ve ever come across. Is it a research facility? The word “institute” definitely suggests it. But then, why do they make sake? And who is Noguchi Naohiko after all?

So let’s clear up the name. Actually, Noguchi Naohiko is a legend in the world of sake. He has been making sake since 1949 and is widely known as the God of Sake Brewing. He started his sake-making training in Shizuoka prefecture when he was 16 at Fuji Takasago Sake Brewery. He shortly moved to Mie prefecture, where he continued learning how to make sake.

Just after 12 years, Noguchi san became a toji (master brewer) at the Kikuhime brewery in Ishikawa prefecture where he had worked for 36 years. He was a driving force behind the revival of the yamahai sake brewing method, had his daiginjo sake served at the First Class of Japanese Airline (JAL) and became a subject of a photo collection among many other things.

Noguchi san retired from the Kikuhime brewery in 1997, but couldn’t stay idle. So he headed Kano Sake Brewery in 1998, where he worked for another 14 years. During that time, he not only continued making beautiful sake, but also published a book, Sake of the Soul (魂の酒).

Noguchi san also received the title of Modern Master Craftsman and was awarded the “Medal with a Yellow Ribbon” by the Japanese government, an honorary award given to a person who is hard-working and a model for the people.

He retired for the second time in 2012 but again did not stay idle for long becoming a toji of Noguchi Sake Brewery in 2013. After that Noguchi san became a toji of The Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute (NNSI) established in 2017 and located among mountains in Ishikawa prefecture, not far from the city of Komatsu. The brewery was founded with the idea of researching the sake brewing techniques, spirit, and way of life of Noguchi san and passing them on to the next generation.

Noguchi Sake in the UK

At last, Noguchi sake is available in the UK thanks to Tengu Sake and its charismatic owner, Oliver Hilton-Johnson. Oliver has already been on Sugidama Podcast two years ago in Episode 09. It was a very popular episode. So when I started thinking about the Brewery Focus miniseries, Oliver was the first person on my mind.

It was a very relaxing and enjoyable conversation over three Noguchi sake, where we were talking about the master, Noguchi san, the brewery and his sake as well as about a few other things. In the end, I ended up with 2 hours of recording, which I had to cut down by half. I almost did it, the episode is just over one hour including my intro and the ending. However, I was left with a lot of cool stuff, which I still want to release as a bonus episode this season.

And don’t forget, Sugidama Podcast now has a sponsor, London Sake, an excellent online sake store. London Sake has one of the widest selections of premium and craft sake available online today. They deliver across the UK and Europe, and with over 100 sake from 25 breweries, there really is something for everyone.

Using simple online tasting notes and sensible, affordable food pairings they help you find the perfect sake without any of the fuss. Listeners of the podcast can get a 10% discount Listen to the episode to get the magical code! London Sake: making sake simple.

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